The Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey is a familiar haunt of mine. Set up by Zandra Rhodes, its displays cover a broad range of textile related subjects from designer to manufacturer and from techniques to style. So it was with great enthusiasm that I ventured out from London Bridge to see the exhibition on the weaving traditions of Peru. I have seldom met any weaver or spinner who does not find the traditional clothes of Peru appealing. There is an overall look to Peruvian textiles, mainly showing in the intricate patterns and range of vivid colours. I was therefore surprised to learn that each region has its own, very distinctive character and that the wearers could be identified by their costume. Peru has a long tradition of creating magnificent textiles. Some fragments of fabric have been found in burial sites dating back many centuries, having been preserved in the dry climate. The terrain of Peru is varied with coastal plains, high mountains, deserts lakes and rainforests. Originally, the fibre used by the early Peruvians came from the camelids of the region, namely the llama, alpacas, guanacos and vicuna. Later cotton was produced on the flatter land of the coastal region. The pieces on display showed the high level of skill involved. There was discontinued warp and weft weaving, tapestry woven cotton with sewn in feathers, cross knit looping, embroidery, appliqué and a knotted cord structure. Examples from the cultures of the Huari, Paracas, Chimu and Nazca, are displayed, each with unique and recognizable characteristics. The region of Chichero is home to several of the Quechua communities. They still live the hard ancient life of the mountains and have preserved the traditional skills. The men farm the land by harvesting potatoes, barley and quinoa. The women rear the animals and use their fibre to spin, knit and weave into their traditional everyday costumes. In the 1930, a literary and artistic movement emerged. Named the Indigenistas Peruanos, it sought to take inspiration from the traditional South American art in painting, stained glass and fashion. This was a beautiful exhibition showing hand made at its best. Lesley Ottewell Comments are closed.
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